This can usually be picked up from the front end with your fingernails. If not, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers if it is really in there. Now that the block and pins have been removed, we can lift the trigger and rear assembly out of the frame. If the rear assembly is being stubborn, lift on the ejector. As soon as it starts to come out it is fee and can be removed with the trigger.
Now that the internals are out take this time to thoroughly clean out your frame. This is not an area that is often cleaned and with everything out already it is the best time to get it done.
To remove the trigger bar from the rear housing simply twist and turn the trigger bar to clear the tab of the plastic channel it is in. From here you can flip the trigger over the housing and remove the spring that connect the bar to the housing. Depending on your kit you may have a new spring and disconnector. If you do replace them now.
Remove the spring from the housing and simply pull up on the disconnector to remove it. If the disconnector is seized in place insert a wide flat head screwdriver into the space between the disconnector and housing and twist applying the upward pressure towards the bottom of the disconnector. If you need to replace the disconnector do that by simply pushing the new one into the place of the old one. If you are replacing the spring simply hook it on to the back of the housing.
Ensure the curl of the spring is inserted into the hole in the housing. Install the new trigger by attaching the spring and twisting and rolling the trigger bar back into the plastic channel.
Simply Slide the rear housing and trigger back into the frame ensuring both are seated properly. Install the block back in its position. If you are unsure about the direction of the block, then it leans forward when the thick lugs are pointed down. It only goes in one way. Start with installing the grip pin. You should have a large pin, a short, skinny, smooth pin, and a pin that is skinny with ends wider than the center. The smooth pin is your rear pin it should also be the shortest of all the pins.
Next install the skinny pin that is wider on the ends. This pin goes into the top hole of the block. It is important to put this pin in before the trigger pin. When installing the trigger pin ensure the trigger is lined up with the holes in the frame and insert the trigger pin from the right to the left. Stop about halfway in. Insert the slide catch into its opening and push the trigger pin through the hole at the end of the slide catch and into the hole on the left side of the frame.
Pro Tip: Using the tip of your punch sideways against the pin is a good way to get the pins centered in the hole without having to fight too much. Then, pull the slide rearward and let the slide come forward. From this point do a functions check by pulling the trigger and listening for the striker to fall.
While holding the trigger back, rack the slide and slowly release the trigger and listen for the reset click. At this point you can rack the slide and say you have swapped the trigger in your Glock yourself.
I am an Army veteran of 7 years and I spent a couple of years as a military armorer. While keeping the detent compressed, slide the pivot pin into its housing.
A channel cut into the pin will capture the detent once the pin is fully seated. It is a tight fit. Lubricant helps. With the safety lever fully inserted, flip the receiver upside down. Drop the safety lever detent into its hole next to the pistol grip mount. Insert the safety lever detent spring into the small hole cut into the top of the pistol grip. Insert the pistol grip onto the pistol mount. Ensure the safety lever detent spring aligns with the detent to capture it.
The pistol grip should align with the threaded hole on the mount. Install and tighten the pistol grip bolt and washer. Hand-tighten the bolt. The washer will ensure the pistol grip bolt does not loosen when the AR is fired. Over-tightening the bolt could crack the receiver's aluminum.
Insert the rear takedown pin detent into the small hole at the rear of the receiver, underneath the buffer tube housing. Insert the rear takedown detent spring in the same hole. Collect the buffer tube, castle nut, and latch plate and thread the castle nut onto the buffer tube. Slide the latch plate over the tube's threads so it rests against the castle nut. Partially thread the buffer tube into the buffer tube housing.
Insert the buffer tube retainer spring into the hole drilled into the buffer tube housing's threads. Insert the buffer retainer over top the retainer spring. A large punch helps to press the retainer down. With the retainer compressed, hand-tighten the buffer tube until it meets the retainer, capturing it inside the hole. While hand-tightening the buffer tube, ensure the latch plate compresses the rear takedown detent spring into its hole.
Keep the latch plate pressed down and tighten the castle nut until the nut secures the latch plate against the rear of the receiver. The buffer tube needs to be torqued so it doesn't loosen when the AR is fired. Use an Armorer's Wrench to tighten the castle nut. You may need to remove the buttstock or pistol brace from the buffer tube to slide the wrench over the castle nut.
Using Loctite or staking the castle nut will help to prevent the nut from loosening. You LPK installation is complete. Depending on the lower parts kit you purchased for your assembly, certain components may need to "break in". During the break-in period, your trigger may feel heavy or gritty, and springs will feel snappy until they're conditioned. If you notice any of the issues below, try the troubleshooting steps below.
If the trigger fails to reset after firing a round, the hammer may be failing to release from the disconnector. This is a very common occurrence, especially with newly installed LPKs. Open the receiver and visually inspect the backside of the hammer, and the top of the disconnector.
The two surfaces circled in red may need light polishing. If the hammer or hook on the disconnector suffer from small machining marks or metal burs, the hammer may get stuck when it should normally release.
When polishing the hammer and disconnector, take very small steps. Removing too much material could cause the disconnector and hammer to fail entirely. If the problem still isn't remedied with light polishing here, check the orientation of the disconnector spring next.
Ensure the skinny end of the spring is facing the disconnector notch. If the spring is oriented correctly, move onto the next possible issue:. What I'm looking for is a decently light trigger pull with a good wall on the take up. What I've found is most with a good wall are equal to pull weight of the stock trigger.
If the connector has a lighter pull they often don't have the wall leaving the feel very mushy. This connector seems to fit the bill very nicely. It has a nice firm wall on the take up as well as one of the smoothest breaks I have felt. When I measured the pull I got a pull weight of 3lbs 14oz.
I am not using a stock trigger or spring kit but I am using a stock striker spring. It would be perfect with a tad shorter reset. I'd be super interested in trying this in combination with the new pro trigger. By Harrison Fawcett. Great pull but I wanted it better so I went with zev.
It just came in and ohhh man is it nice. Definitely a must have.
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