I like the look of my Class A going up the side That Progress is a beautiful stove. Should serve you well. Reactions: ScotO. DexterDay said:. Should serve you well View attachment Brian New Member. Aug 31, 60 Long Island,NY.
Feb 6, 2, North Eastern MA. Bucky: I would not worry about an overdraft with that setup. I switched from the Fireview to the Progress and noticed a definite drop in draft with a 15 foot exterior 6" SS uninsulated liner. The Progress has lower flue temperatures than the Fireview, so I really believe this stove wants to see good flue height and an insulated system, both of which you should have. Dexter: I would not worry about an overdraft with that setup.
The Progress has lower flue temperatures than the Fireview, so I really believe this stove wants to see good flue height and an insulated system, both of which you have. That's a nice looking install! Please let us know how it works out. Brian said:. Dexter,I have almost the exact set up as you that I just finished installing,I'm curious as to how hot that tee section gets when you have a ripping fire I only have double wall,so mine will be warmer but I'm concerned that it's so low that leaves may get around there at times and ignite BobUrban Minister of Fire.
Jul 24, 1, Central Michigan. Mine goes thru the house and straight up but I think the oustide has some advantages regarding cleaning due to it being outside. I think, if possible, it would be nice to go up and out if you are on the ground floor with the stove so you can clean from the bottom but that is just a thought. Not needing to get out a ladder and subsequent risk involved climbing said ladder in the winter would be a nice feature given the option upon install.
For the record I clean mine from inside the house with limited mess - much less than I expected. Woody Stover Minister of Fire. Dec 25, 12, Southern IN. I have 18 ft of Triple wall Simpson outside. Had the same question. The tee support bracket appears to be missing.
Woody Stover said:. You will have to make sure you build a strong and solid foundation for your masonry chimney and that can increase the overall building cost of your home.
Many contemporary homes, if they have a fireplace or furnace and need a chimney, have a prefabricated chimney. A prefabricated chimney is made in a factory, usually made from some sort of sheet metals. Prefabricated chimney manufacturers offer chimneys in a variety of designs and sizes, you just need to pick the appropriate one for your home. As we mentioned, prefabricated chimneys come in a variety of designs. This means that there will be a prefab chimney that is sure to fit you overall home design.
Installing a prefabricated chimney is also cheaper than building masonry or metal chimney. It is also quicker to install a prefab chimney rather than to build one. It should be noted, however, that prefabricated chimneys tend to be less durable than masonry and metal chimneys.
They are also less able to withstand high heat, so you will have to regularly inspect your chimney and maybe repair or replace some sections. In general there are four types of prefabricated chimneys. These are air insulated, air cooled, combination and double walled chimneys. You should know the differences between the types as it will also help you decide which one will work best for you.
An air insulated chimney is designed to minimize the air flow through the chimney by trapping air between its metal layers. The advantage to these types of chimneys is their increased heat effect. An air-insulated chimney is a bit more expensive and difficult to install than other prefabricated chimneys but it is an excellent choice for homes in areas that experience extreme cold. They can stand up to the cold better than other types of chimneys and will last longer.
An air-cooled chimney has multiple layers of metal with some space in-between to allow for air flow. Because the chimney is designed to let the hot air out, the heat from the chimney is dissipated, resulting in a slight cooling effect. Another reason to avoid an air-cooled chimney if winters are particularly harsh in your area is, because extreme cold can result in a lot of condensation within the metal layers which could prematurely corrode your entire chimney.
A combination chimney is a prefabricated chimney that combines several features from other chimney types. For example, some chimney manufacturers offer a chimney that is both air-cooling and air-insulating. Place the step flashing over the caulk and onto the chimney. I have to flash a chimney where it penetrates a corrugated metal roof with ridges inches o.
Slide the rubber boot over the pipe to check the fit. Corrugated metal roofs are no different. I don't bother with the metal roof flashing anymore.
After screwing it down securely, do another bead of silicone around the edge also put some silicone on all the screws as well. The guy at the stove shop told me to contact the roof manufacturer to get some type of flashing that would match the ridges of my metal. Chimney pipes on metal roofs must be flashed in order to create a watertight seal around the pipe and prevent leaks through the roof.
A roof flashing with aluminum on the base edges will ensure the product can be formed to the metal roof profile. Hammer 2 roofing nails into the flashing and roof. As the side base flashing approaches the valley flashing, it will have to be shaped to lie in the lower, trough section of the roofing so that the second sheet of roofing will lie flat.
Roof flashing installation is a component of any roof, that ensures protection against any type of weather. Trim the flashing in the center of the rubber boot with a roofing knife so it fits snugly around the pipe.
Place the chimney where it would be related to the stove and mark the center of the chimney on the ceiling. The collar is attached to a flat panel which they screwed or riveted down to the roof panel, then filled the gaps with really thick silicone caulking. Pin on roofing.
Pin on Roof Design. Pin on Cottage Building. Pin on Modern Home Interiors. Move back downstairs and use a nutdriver to secure the pipe adapter to the bucket with sheetmetal screws Photo Thread together enough pipe to reach from the installed length through the flashing Fig.
Install the supplied ring clamps to secure the joints between each pair of pipes. On the roof, install the storm collar by sliding the tabs of one end into the slots on the other Fig. Bend the tabs over and slide the collar down to the flashing. Apply a bead of silicone caulk to seal the joint between the storm collar and the chimney Fig.
To keep attic insulation away from the chimney, install the two-piece metal insulation shield. Simply join the halves around the chimney Fig. Then, place the collar over the shield Fig. Add the required lengths of chimney to bring the height to the appropriate distance above the roof, secure joints with ring clamps and attach the weather cap. Note that chimneys extending more than 4 ft.
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